Training camp in Paris

On the trail of the French

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06.03.2024 14:03

Climbing ace Nicolai Uznik criticizes the route setters' distribution of countries at last year's top events. This year, it's all about qualifying for the Olympic Games in Paris. Uznik: "I'm going my own way!"

A training trip to the city of love - but Nicolai Uznik had to leave his sweetheart Sofya Yokoyama (she trains with the Swiss team) at home and flew to Paris with Austria's A squad.

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"We made every climbing hall unsafe, because that's where many route setters set their routes, which will also be used at the Olympics," explains Uznik. "Every bolter has their own idiosyncrasies, so you can adapt to that." But that can also be a problem. Last year, it was mainly the French who built the routes at the World Cups or major events.

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Every screwdriver has their own idiosyncrasies. For the French, the previous season was certainly an advantage with a view to the Olympics.

Nicolai UZNIK, Boulder-Europameister

"That plays into their hands - I firmly believe it's an advantage. It's weird how things are going at the moment," says the 23-year-old from Rosental.

Off to the Carinthian homeland
In addition to the team trip to Paris, he has been preparing in Innsbruck for the season, which kicks off on March 16/17 with the Bouldering State Championships in Klagenfurt. "But I need a lot of variety, I'm often in Carinthia," says Uznik, who has also matured himself ahead of his fourth elite season. "I no longer chase after others, I've learned to go my own way. I could never train like Jakob Schubert, for example - I just have to enjoy it."

Nicolai Uznik (Bild: Tobias Lanzanasto)
Nicolai Uznik

Qualifying events for the Olympics in his sights
On the way to the Olympic combined event in Paris, Uznik is preparing for two important competitions. In Shanghai in May and in Budapest in June, the remaining places for the Games are at stake. A total of 20 athletes (with a maximum of 2 per nation) are allowed to compete. 

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