Early start with consequences

Cheap competition, no helpers: asparagus misery!

Workers are already planting new crops.

(Bild: Bartel Gerhard)

The big business with asparagus has been underway in Germany since mid-March: Around five percent of the produce has already been sold to high-end restaurants, retailers and the like, but the costly harvest is putting many farms to the test. As is well known, harvest workers are in short supply ...

The early start for the "King of Vegetables" is viewed with a smile and a tear in the eye by local businesses. While in many places the cookbooks for the green, white or purple vitamin dispenser are already being taken out of the cupboard, frost damage also caused a stir in the red-white-red asparagus growing areas despite large margins.

At the Krone's site inspection in Mannsdorf an der Donau (Lower Austria), Werner Magoschitz's farm is bustling with activity. Full operation is due to start this week. Although many steps are already carried out mechanically, the human factor is also in demand here.

The farms also rely heavily on machinery for the asparagus harvest. But seasonal workers are still needed.

(Bild: Bartel Gerhard)

Foreman Vincent Farkas (52) from nearby Slovakia orchestrates the interaction between field and processing. He has been supporting the Magoschitz farming family for almost 25 years on their way to becoming a top domestic farm. "In the beginning, I didn't even know what asparagus actually was, but now I probably know the crops better than the boss," says Farkas. For the senior farmer, such model employees are worth their weight in gold, especially as the shortage of skilled workers naturally also affects agriculture.

Magoschitz and Farkas (left) struggle with frost damage.

(Bild: Bartel Gerhard)

Cleaning is still done by hand at the beginning.

(Bild: Bartel Gerhard)

Cheaper and cheaper: competition from overseas and Europe
From mid-March to mid-June, between 180 and 200 seasonal workers are employed at the asparagus farm, and clever ways have been found to keep the helpers through neighborly help and cooperation with other sectors. However, new workers are hard to find, and when they do, they come from Romania or Ukraine. The "edge of the plate" is soon reached: "We farm 120 hectares, but have already had to cut back production. The cheap competition from Peru, Hungary, Italy and France is of course affecting us, but the lack of skilled workers and the high non-wage labor costs have become the main problem."

I took over the farm back then with just 14 hectares. But I wouldn't set up a farm like that today, the effort involved is enormous.

Werner Magoschitz zur „Krone“

He doesn't even want to talk about the strict controls by the labor inspectorate, AMA & Co. and the tough business with retailers. Just this much can be said: "I wouldn't set up the business in this form today," says the farm manager without beating around the bush. In future, however, his four children will also have to deal with this, if they want to take over the large business at all.

Workers are already planting new crops.

(Bild: Bartel Gerhard)

Until then, however, Werner Magoschitz has full confidence in the consumers. Domestic produce may seem more expensive at first glance, but it also has to meet high standards. The fact is: in terms of taste, local produce always wins, as the asparagus farmer's prominent customers - such as the world-famous Steirereck restaurant in Vienna - prove. Marchfeld asparagus is characterized by its 22-centimetre length. The shorter, the better.

Green, white or purple - local asparagus tastes good.

(Bild: Bartel Gerhard)

"We need skilled workers, not hobby gardeners from the city"
Farmers' President Johannes Schmuckenschlager (ÖVP) calls for more movement in politics and society in an interview:

"Krone": Mr. Schmuckenschlager, the work in agriculture is very hard and demanding - who should still do it in the future?
Johannes Schmuckenschlager: A good question, I honestly don't know. Away from the farmers, things look bleak. We are currently in a good position with the quotas for seasonal workers, but we are operating in a field of tension. Finding new foreign workers in particular is almost impossible. Helpers from Hungary or Slovakia are usually already working in other sectors - often better paid ones - in their countries of origin. Some companies in the country therefore recruit workers from the Far East.

ÖVP environment spokesman Schmuckenschlager

(Bild: www.charakter.photos | Philipp Monihart)

Why not also look for helpers on the domestic labor market?
There have already been attempts in Austria to employ unemployed people in agriculture. But these projects have all failed, you have to be honest. Unfortunately, I don't see any real willingness to work here. After all, we need skilled workers and not hobby gardeners from the city.

Perhaps nobody wants to work for such low wages anymore?
I don't accept that. We have already achieved some improvements in pay and suitable accommodation in recent years. The black sheep in our industry have mostly been weeded out. But you also have to look at and discuss the pay issue in detail.

In what way?
Something like this: Anyone who demonstrates for higher wages in the fall must also be aware that food prices will be higher in the spring. After all, a large part of prices is determined by wage costs. So there can only be fair wages if there are also fair prices for local produce. Farmers work hard for their money, but others do not.