In the heart of Sardinia

Barbagia: tradition for tradition’s sake

Hikes, wine and enjoyment - that's Sardinia too. An "eventful" cultural and culinary journey into the heart of the island. And to the unique nuraghi and mamuthones.

More than 20 degrees during the day, sunshine, cool evenings. It's fall when I'm in Sardinia. I only get a brief sniff of the beach air, as I'm here to discover Barbagia, the heart of the Mediterranean island. My day starts in Urzulei. 1200 people live here. We are greeted by nature guide Francesco Murru. Before he takes us on a hike, he shows us around the village, tells us about its history, the importance of traditional Sardinian costumes and the paintings by local artists that adorn the walls of the houses.

Handcrafted from Affodill stems
On our tour, we meet Luigina and Agostina. The two women weave baskets and coasters from affodil stems soaked in water. A plant that belongs to the grass family. They teach the tradition of this handicraft to young women in the village - and now also to young men. At lunchtime, we fortify ourselves with pane carasau, the thin, crispy Sardinian flatbread, tomatoes, bacon and cheese. The bread also tastes particularly good with ricotta and honey from the affodill plant.

Unique in the world: the nuraghe
On the Fennau plateau in the Supramonte del Urzulei, we hike alongside donkeys, cows and - very relaxing - without cell phone reception at 1000 meters above sea level to something unique in Sardinia, a nuraghe. There are thousands of them on the island, many of which are just the remains, like this one. Whether a fortress, temple or observatory - it is not entirely clear exactly what they were used for.

Magnificent views and giant tombs
From the Nuraghe Perdeballa, we have a wonderful view of the 1300-metre-high Monte Nuovo San Giovanni opposite us. On the way back, we pass the remains of the giants' tombs of S'Arena. We say goodbye to Francesco and drive on to Oliena, where we spend the night.

Sure-footed ascent of Monte Tiscali
The next day, we head to the foot of the 500-metre-high Monte Tiscali in the off-road vehicle of our guide today, Paolo. In addition to good footwear, surefootedness is particularly important on the ascent. At this moment, I am grateful to my father that he used to go hiking with me often and taught me the importance of mountain walking for life. After a good hour, we reach Tiscali, the remains of a former nuragic settlement in a collapsed cave. We end the evening in the Ecoparco Neulè nature park, which resembles a ranch and is located above the Lago del Cedrino reservoir. The clouds clear just in time for sunset.

Autumn in Barbagia
Another special feature is the "Autunno di Barbagia", or autumn in Barbagia. From September to December, a different village is presented every weekend. Locals come to learn about local customs, admire handicrafts and, above all, indulge in culinary delights. We tourists are very welcome. This Sunday, Lollove - a village where only 30 people still live - is hosting the festival. Houses and courtyards are opened up in the village. There is music, singing, Sardinian specialties, hot chestnuts, sweets, pasta, but also unusual things like donkey meat. People chat, eat, drink and celebrate. It is a feast for all the senses, tradition for tradition's sake.

The Mamuthones of Mamoiada
The last stop on our journey is the village of Mamoiada with its 2,500 inhabitants. When you are here, you understand why the region is considered a "blue zone" - an area where many inhabitants live to be over 100 years old. The people seem relaxed and content. The stressed society I come from doesn't exist here. People are friendly, know each other and help each other out. The annual carnival, for which Mamoiada is famous, is one of the oldest popular festivals on the island. The Mamuthones take center stage. They wear masks carved from wood, painted black with a distinctive face and a sheepskin with heavy cowbells hanging from it.

Sardinian wine and men's songs
Away from the festivities, you can admire them in the local mask museum. The wine is also excellent. We visit several winegrowers in the village - and experience a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the "Canto a tenore", polyphonic male singing, which has a centuries-old tradition. Finally, we discover Su Tapiu, a small, elegant and romantic restaurant that serves an excellent dinner. Over a final glass of red wine, I reflect on this wonderful culinary hiking trip. The heart of the island has also captured my heart.