On the Alpe-Adria-Trail
From the glacier to Lake Wörthersee in 20 days
Accompany me in this online travel diary on my 350-kilometre long-distance hike on the Alpe-Adria-Trail through one of the most beautiful regions in Austria. My 20-stage journey takes me from the highest mountain, the Grossglockner, to the turquoise-blue Wörthersee in Carinthia. Enjoy reading my updates and I look forward to the odd piece of advice, tip or like. Thank you very much. Yours, Diana.
I am a "repeat offender"! Almost two years ago I already
17 days from Velden via Slovenia to Italy and fell in love with the diverse beauty of the Alpe-Adria-Trail.
Probably the most important experience of all: hiking for days or weeks reduces life to the essentials: getting up, walking, arriving. You do fewer things - but you do them consciously. And in doing so, you not only get closer to a distant destination, but also to yourself at best.
After arriving in Muggia (Italy), it was clear to me that I would also complete the remaining 20 stages of the long-distance trail at some point. This year the time has come: I start my adventure in Carinthia on June 10 at the foot of the Pasterze, Austria's largest glacier.
The first day's stages are completely under the spell of the Hohe Tauern National Park and will take me above the Mölltal valley, with spectacular gorge crossings to Mallnitz and on to the artists' town of Gmünd. Hiking through the magical, archaic mountain landscape in the UNESCO Nockberge Biosphere Reserve is another highlight, before the route continues up and down via Arriach, the geographical center of Carinthia, on to the Gerlitzen, to Lake Ossiach and on to my destination, Velden am Wörthersee.
Tour data: 13.6 km/ascent: 110 m, descent: 1190 m/duration: approx. 6 hours
Overnight stay: Traditional hotel Der Glocknerwirt in Heiligenblut
Flowers glow in the valley, the white of the glacier above
The start of the Alpe-Adria-Trail couldn't be more spectacular: I take my first step into adventure right at the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe (2369 m altitude), the end point of the 48-kilometre Grossglockner High Alpine Road. Incidentally, the famous panoramic road is the second most popular excursion destination in Austria after Schönbrunn Zoo.
From the AAT info point, the road descends in steep serpentines to the Pasterze. And on to Lake Sandersee - over whose outflow an original suspension bridge leads. The meltwater from the Pasterze thunders down into the narrow Möll Gorge in a thundering waterfall directly below the foot of the bridge. Now in June, I can still walk around a few snowfields in this section - with surefootedness, hiking poles and good footwear, not too difficult.
From the Margaritzensee lake (incidentally, the Pasterze still reached this point in the middle of the 19th century), the landscape changes increasingly. You hike on classic alpine pastureland - an interplay between clearings and gentle forest floor. After a steep descent from the Trogalm in the direction of Leiterfall, I finally reached the Briccius Chapel (1629 m altitude) on a forest path.
History along the way
The Briccius healing spring rises close to the place where, according to legend, St. Briccius met his death. According to ancient folklore, the water helps with eye problems.
Invigorated by the fresh spring water, I continued from the small church to the Sattelalm (the only refreshment stop along this stage). Wolfgang, the host of the hut, treats his guests to regional and mostly homemade delicacies. And the native Styrian is open "every day throughout the summer", as he proudly emphasizes. His apple tiramisu in a glass tastes delicious, as does the Sattel specialty drink. I won't reveal the ingredients here - it's best to try it for yourself.
I reached Heiligenblut from the Sattelalm after a walk of around 1 hour.
Book tip: Natural history guide "Gletscherweg Pasterze" - new edition about the effects of climate change. Available for 6.40 euros at the Haus der Steinböcke in Heiligenblut, in the store of the BIOS National Park Center Mallnitz. Order at 04825/6161 and nationalpark@ktn.gv.at
Tour data: 12.8 km/ascent: 445 m, descent: 741 m/duration: 5 hours
Overnight stay: Hotel Döllacher Dorfwirtshaus
Hike through the past and present
"In da Mölltålleitn, in da Sunnaseitn, da san die Blüamalan noch amål so schönan..." - hardly any other Carinthian song describes the beauty of the Mölltal valley more aptly. In addition to the well-tended landscape, I was also accompanied on the short stage from Heiligenblut to Döllach by rural creativity and living tradition.
Mountain farmers have been tending the forest and meadows on the steep slopes of the Apriacher Almen for generations. Time and again you come across slopes that can still only be mown by hand, despite technical advances.
After leaving the village center of Heiligenblut behind me by climbing uphill, I pass through the Große and Kleine Fleißtal valleys. Gold mining has shaped the history and landscape of both valleys for many centuries, as can still be seen today in the Kleines Fleißtal, where the original restored gold mining village of Heiligenblut with its gold panning plant bears witness.
I followed the signposted AAT trail past the Fleißkapelle chapel to an important cultural monument - the Apriacher Stockmühlen mills.
Insights into rural craftsmanship
Eight farmers once built their grain mill along a small stream. And because tradition is very important in the Möll Valley, the Apriach flour mills are still well preserved today. The word "stick" is used because it forms the wooden drive axle of the millstone in the water. The 400-year-old Mentlhof farm is located a little way below the mills. This is home to a lovingly furnished small mountain farmer's museum, where you can gain an insight into the laborious conditions with which the most basic necessities of life were wrested from nature in the past. Opening hours: Tues. and Thurs., 10 am to 12 noon. Also available outside these times by prior arrangement (04824 23 54).
From Apriach, the Alpe-Adria-Trail follows the old church path down to Döllach. I reached my destination for today's stage after just over four hours - including a visit to the mountain farm museum.
His majesty, the Grossglockner, was being a bitch again today (as the locals affectionately say) - he hid behind the clouds during my hike. The views of the Jungfernsprung waterfall opposite, which shoots down more than 120 meters in three cascades, made up for this.
Tour data: 18.5 km/ascent: 948 m, descent: 134 m/duration: 7 hours
Overnight stay: Almgasthaus Marterle
The first section of this tour runs along the Glockner cycle path, past the Gartl waterfall through the hamlet of Stampfen to Mörtschach. If you prefer, you can also take the Postbus (timetable at the Döllach bus stop).
The path winds its way up towards Marterle via the Kreuterwiesen (or Kräuterwiesen - the spelling varies). From the long forest road, a "window" of the Upper Möll Valley sometimes opened up in the fog.
From an altitude of around 1530 meters, a steep ascent and rope-secured crossing of the Haselwand (easily accessible) began. Wisps of mist clung to the trees. We climbed over roots and stones through the rain-soaked, mystical forest up to the highest pilgrimage church in Austria.
I was able to end the day relaxing in the warm restaurant of Erika Thaler's Almgasthaus.
Marterle
The wayside crosses are called "Marterle" in Carinthian dialect. Between 1902 and 1904, Austria's highest pilgrimage church was built on the site of such a wayside cross. The initiator of the construction was the then parish priest of Rangersdorf/Mölltal, the Reverend Josef Konas.
Previously, the Wenneberg Alpine Chapel stood at the same location at 1861 meters above sea level.
Tour data: 12 km/ascent: 89 m, descent: 1098 m/duration: approx. 4 hours
Overnight stay: Mölltaler Appartements in Stall
Early in the morning, I started directly at the Marterle on the way down into the valley. It had snowed overnight. Leitenkopf (2449 vertical meters), Hohe Nase (2560 vertical meters) and the surrounding mountains were covered in white.
The route along the Kirchweg downhill through the forest, across slopes and alpine meadows - surrounded by dozens of two-thousand-metre peaks in the Hohe Tauern. Dogs should always be kept on a lead on this section, as you cross several pastures. From about the halfway point, the forest road and road vary until you reach Stall.
The name of the village is derived from the legend that everything but a stable was destroyed in a landslide. What is historically certain is that the church and Wildegg Castle (now a ruin above the village) are among the oldest Christian strongholds in Carinthia.
I end the day in the company of Geke. She and her husband Erik have been running the Mölltal apartment house in Stall for three years. The couple's story is bold and adventurous - Geke and Erik come from Twente in the Netherlands. In 2021, they sold all their possessions in their home country and moved to Mölltal - for good! "We have been vacationing in Carinthia with our motorhome for over 15 years. We love the area! And then the time had come and we took the plunge. If you wait until you're old, it might be too late for all that," she says with a smile and a delightful accent. The couple have created a cheerful, colorful oasis in the village, where holidaymakers with motorhomes are of course also welcome.
Tour data: 19.9 km/ascent: 1086 m, descent: 836 m/duration: approx. 8 hours
Overnight stay: Fraganter Schutzhaus at 1770 m altitude
"The only constant in life is change," said Willi over a glass of red wine at the Fraganter Schutzhaus - but more on that later. This stage also had to do with change. The mountain road on the Sonnberg was closed due to logging work - unfortunately, large areas in the region are infested by the bark beetle, so the priority is to remove the damaged wood from the forest.
Respect in a sensitive habitat
We are all guests in nature. Mountain regions are sensitive habitats - both ecologically and culturally. It was a matter of course for me to adapt my tour so that my presence did not interfere with anyone's necessary work. In the morning, I took the regional bus from Stall to Außerfragant and hiked from there via Laas and Grafenberg to the parking lot of the "Rollbahn" Großfragant. From there I followed the original route of the AAT.
After the strenuous climb, the three-kilometre path on flat terrain was a relief. Despite the well-preserved route, it is hard to imagine today that heavy traffic once rolled along here on horse-drawn railroads to transport sulphur and copper pyrite. Old galleries, tunnels and bridges are reminders of the heyday of mining.
After crossing the Sadnigbach stream, I finally reached the Fraganter Schutzhaus and was greeted by the hut owner Ingo and sheepdog Azzuro.
At an altitude of 1770 meters, I then enjoyed pure hospitality in a house that harmoniously combines nature and modern architecture in a beautiful mountain setting. In the evening, Christa and Willi dropped by for a glass of red wine. They live just above the hut and are always happy to visit the tenants Bianca and Ingo. I will remember the warm and stimulating conversation that evening for a long time to come. Willi is a long-time reader of the "Kronen Zeitung". His respectful words towards our medium did me good. Willi's motto is: "The only constant in life is change" - and he is right! Any "detours" that occur are very welcome and usually very instructive. Change is a part of our lives that we can count on with confidence.
After a hearty breakfast, I set off on the long walk to Mallnitz. First I descended from the refuge to Innerfragent (around an hour) and warmed up well.
The route on this stage is mainly on asphalt or forest roads. In midsummer, you should start as early as possible, as there is not much shade on the long ascent towards "Poschacher" and "Staneralm". But as they say in Carinthia: "Augn zua und ause durchs Gschtaudach" - close your eyes and keep going! However, you should keep your eyes open high up! The unobstructed view over large parts of Carinthia, all the way to the Karawanken, makes up for the exertions of this section.
From the newly adapted "Stanerhäusern", the trail leads downhill to the Himmelbauer alpine inn. And this is not only in a heavenly location, but also has plenty of culinary delights in store for its guests and tired hikers like me.
Well fortified, I started the end of this long stage from there. After seven hours of walking, I reached the village of "Mallnitz - the gateway to the world of the Hohe Tauern" exhausted but happy.
Tour data: 18.6 km/ascent: 206 m, descent: 713 m/duration: 6 hours
Overnight stay: Pension Haus Rita in Obervellach
Three natural highlights of the Hohe Tauern
After the start, today's route leads along the valley circular trail (past the National Park Center) into the Seebachtal valley without any significant ascents. Lake Stappitz is located at an altitude of 1273 meters in the outer zone of the Hohe Tauern National Park. The natural monument also has its place in the long-standing Carinthian legends, as the famous lindworm is said to have hatched here and made its way to Klagenfurt via the Möll and Drau rivers.
The high mountain steppe lake is not only beautiful to look at, but also fulfills an important function as a resting place for migratory birds. The wide shore areas are a gem of untouched nature, where rare bird species such as herons, alpine swifts and golden eagles can be observed.
Built close to the water
After the Mallnitz high plateau, I hiked along the so-called "Wine Road", alongside the Tauern Railway, to another highlight of the seventh stage - the Rabisch Gorge. This was formed over many decades by the Mallnitzbach stream. On the left bank, the route descends towards Lassach, past the foaming torrent that rushes powerfully into the depths.
After the Rabischschlucht gorge, I left the shady side of Lassach for the sunny side of the village (it really is called that) and hiked down across the lush green of flowering meadows to the Groppenschlucht gorge. This is where the path divides, as you have to pay to visit this natural spectacle. If you don't want to pay the entrance fee (currently 9 euros/adults - reduced rate of 8 euros for senior citizens, students and Alpine Club members), take the right-hand path at the AAT. I chose the path through the gorge and came directly after the entrance to the impressive "Zechnerfall" with a drop height of 40 meters.
The well-maintained trail leads close to the water over a length of two and a half kilometers over airy bridges and steps past rapids and thundering waterfalls. For me, walking through the gorge was definitely a worthwhile experience on the way to Obervellach, in the heart of the Mölltal.
Living appreciation
Obervellach is one of eleven Slow Food Villages, or "places of good living", which offer tasty, regional food for holidaymakers and locals in sunny Carinthia. Sustainability and resource conservation are naturally taken into account.
Tour data: 17 km/ascent: 752 m, descent: 812 m/duration: approx. 6 hours
Overnight stay: Gasthof Kirchenwirt Kolbnitz
Of hospitality, nature trails and the oldest cult site in Carinthia
This stage particularly touched me personally. Why? Because of a gesture that has unfortunately become far too rare: selflessness.
From Obervellach, the route first led me up to Niederfalkenstein Castle (872 meters in altitude) and then partly along the Glockner cycle path to Penk. Shortly before Litzldorf I came to "Peter's Rad'l Rastplatz" - a land of milk and honey for anyone taking a break there.
A sign says: Nothing is sold at this Radl Rastplatz. Everything here is free and is financed by me through many small donations - for fruit, drinks, sweets or useful things for the road. Please feel free to take something with you.
There were fresh apples, strawberries, tomatoes, chilled drinks, repair kits for bike tires, luggage tensioners, a box full of practical little things for travelers and much more. And although I'm not on the road with a bike, I enjoyed the comfort of the lovely rest stop - of course I also made a donation. They say: "Joy is like a stone that, thrown into water, draws ever wider circles". Thanks to Peter Delorenzo for the special break and generosity!
We continued along the "hunting trail" to the Danielsberg. I really enjoyed the ascent in the shady mixed forest.
Mystical and historical
For over 6000 years, across cultures and religions, the Danielsberg has been used and revered as a sacred site. The oldest evidence of human activity is the Celtic cup stone on the meadow about 60 meters from the church. Blood is said to have been poured into the bowl-shaped hollows as the most precious offering on a full moon night. Human blood, by the way, to request salvation from the deities. The rock with the bowl stones is the oldest cult site discovered to date in Upper Carinthia: the Danielsberg is therefore also considered the oldest sacred mountain in the region.
After the "place of sacrifice", I continued along the lovingly designed "nature trail" and reached Kolbnitz after around five hours of walking.
Tour data: 16.4 km/ascent: 674 m, descent: 221 m/duration: 6 hours
Tour data: 14.1 km/ascent: 220 m, descent: 527 m/duration: approx. 5 hours
Overnight stay: Gasthof Prunner in Gmünd
I set off at seven o'clock in the morning so that I could complete most of the 30 kilometers to Gmünd in bearable temperatures.
Stage nine first follows the Glockner cycle path along the Möll to Mühldorf. After passing under the Tauern Railway, you enter the legendary world of Emperor Frederick I in the "Barbarossa Gorge". Emperor Rothbart (Barbarossa in Italian) and his followers are said to have been haunted by the devil himself during a rest stop.
Along a themed trail, you can find out how the poor souls still trapped in the gorge could be saved by hikers. Caution! The path through the gorge is designed as a circular route - when you reach the upper exit, do not descend towards "Alte Linde", but follow the flat forest path to Göriach.
I reached Hühnersberg (derived from "Huonaresperch", which means "mountain of chicken traders") around midday and knew that I still had a sweaty 14 kilometers to Gmünd ahead of me. If I hadn't combined the two stages, I would have reached my actual destination for the day. However, I left the Mölltal and its Hohe Tauern behind me and switched to less rugged terrain - the gentleness of the Nockberge.
The Carinthian Nockberge mountains (a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 2012) are among the most interesting and oldest mountain formations in Europe. The Nocken, the huge summit peaks, overgrown with grass and herbs, are a rarity in the Alpine region. As early as 1980, over 90 percent of the Carinthian population voted in favor of protecting this unique natural landscape.
I hiked via Hintereggen to Altersberg. From there, there are two ways to get to Gmünd: Either take the alternative route along the AAT directly to Trebesing or choose the path over the "Drachenschlucht" suspension bridge (accessible from June to mid-September, 9.30 am to 4.30 pm) to Neuschitz. Both routes are well signposted. The suspension bridge is closed in bad weather. Telephone information: 04732/3000.
At the confluence of the Lieser and Malta rivers (hence the name "münden") lies one of the oldest towns in Carinthia. I can recommend taking a rest day in Gmünd during your hike along the Alpe-Adria-Trail.
Locations from Gmünd's past can be traced on a leisurely walk. For example, you can discover the pillory at the Upper Town Gate, which dates back to the 15th century. The Altweiberkapelle chapel is located at the beginning of the covered castle walkway. The ascent to the old castle is rewarded with a magnificent view over the town. On the way to the Calvary Church, the seven artistically designed (Protestant) Stations of the Cross deserve attention.
When a car drives through the church
One of the town's curiosities is definitely the "Divided Church" at Kreuzbichl (follow the main road for about 700 meters through the upper gate). The small church is literally divided by a road: on the right is the altar section and on the left the building with a gallery for visitors. Both "rooms" are open to the street - and if a vehicle drives through the church during the service, the priest will probably have to stop for a moment.
In 1982, the Pfeifhofer family's passion for collecting powerful engines was consolidated into the first private Porsche museum in the town. This closes a historical circle. Because the first car with the Porsche name was built in Gmünd in 1948 - the "356", by the way.
Art between the mountains
In the recent past, the town of 2,500 inhabitants has made a name for itself as a city of artists. Exhibitions of international and regional artists, open studios, concerts, workshops, cultural cinema, arts and crafts market, sculpture garden, Pankratium (The House of Amazement) - there is a lot going on here and if you want to see everything, you should stay longer than a day.
Tour data: 18.1 km/ascent: 299 m, descent: 451 m/duration: approx. 5 hours
Overnight stay: Hotel Moserhof in Seeboden on Lake Millstatt
Across lush fields, on forest and meadow paths and, due to a detour (due to a landslide), also along the Trefflinger Landesstraße, today's route led me comfortably to Seeboden.
Above the Lieser river after the village of Kolm, I hiked to the ruins of Sommeregg Castle and enjoyed the fantastic view of Lake Millstatt while sipping a cool drink on the shady terrace of the restaurant. For all those who like to immerse themselves in scary stories: Sommeregg Castle is home to Central Europe's largest torture museum with more than 100 original exhibits and offers visitors a 90-minute guided tour with both educational and spine-chilling information.
I arrived at the Alpe-Adria-Infopoint in Seeboden at lunchtime, accompanied by the rippling of the river and the singing of birds.
The short stage allowed me to enjoy the afternoon on the shores of the clear Millstätter See. In the small Klingerpark (even with a Kneipp pool) there was a midsummer feeling - young and old enjoying a summer retreat on the lawn and in the water.
Tour data: 21.5 km/ascent: 1602 m, descent: 403 m/duration: 8 hours
Overnight stay: Millstätter Hütte
Well rested and refreshed, I hiked uphill from Seeboden at a relaxed pace. On this stage, I enjoyed the opportunity to stop off at two very well-kept huts with wonderful views: the first at 1336 meters above sea level, with a view of the junction of the Drau and Tauern valleys - at the Pichl Hütte. And also from the Sommereggeralm at an altitude of 1720 meters.
Behind the Sommeregger Hütte, the ascent to the Tschiernock, the highest point of the day, begins in easy serpentines. The elongated ridge, which has been a constant companion for the previous hours, gets closer with every step. The altitude also increases rapidly in a very short time. The "Steinerne Tisch" is a turning point, because from there I head east towards the Millstätter Hütte (my destination for today), which I have been longing for.
A rising wind as a sign of an imminent change in the weather gave me a bit of an adventure and was my reward for not catching a glimpse of the world of the 3000m peaks! Nevertheless, I felt the alpine atmosphere along the entire ridge route, from the Hochpalfennock to the Tschierwegernock. My respect went out to all the cows and horses along the way, who are exposed to nature around the clock at this altitude without any protection.
The "descent" via the Millstätter Steig to the hut was the crowning glory of the day's exertions. We were rewarded with the warm hospitality of the hut host Karl and the rustic atmosphere of a 100-year-old wooden hut. An eventful, longest day of the calendar year (summer solstice) came to an end.
Tour data: 24 km/ascent: 501 m, descent: 1698 m/duration: approx. 8 hours
Overnight stay: Hotel zur Post in Döbriach
A new day with fresh air and clear views at an altitude of 1880 meters began with the chimes of grazing animals grazing happily around the hut.
The cross of the Millstätter Törl always in view was great motivation for the first waypoint of the day. We quickly reached it and had our first 360-degree panoramic view with new peaks: the Ankogel group and the Hochalmspitze embedded in white clouds were a contrasting image to the soft alpine character of the Nockberge. After a short, crisp ascent, the Kamplnock with its 2101 meters of altitude was the highest point of this stage.
Furry companions on the "path of love"
On the next few steps over the ridge, I was given a special gift by nature: at the beginning, I was able to observe marmots at close range as they bustled and lingered. They, too, must appreciate the views into the distance, as it was delightful to see that some of them positioned themselves in the same direction as the wooden benches for couples along the entire "Path of Love" ("Sentiero dell' Amore" leads from the Alexanderhütte via the alpine pastures of the Millstätter Alpe in seven stations to the Granattor).
The occurrence of garnet in the region was the impetus for paying homage to this type of rock in the form of the Garnet Gate - a special waypoint and popular resting place has been created high above Lake Millstatt.
Now began the formative part of this hike... a long and demanding descent. A stop at the Lammersdorfer Hütte provided me with the necessary refreshment for the final section over forest and meadow paths back to "civilization". Characteristic for this part of the route was the steady increase in temperature - the pleasant easterly wind and constant view of Lake Millstatt provided mental refreshment.
Tour data: 17.3 km/ascent: 1046 m, descent: 0 m/duration: 6 hours
Overnight stay: Erlacherhaus in Radenthein
In just a few steps, I found myself in the idyllic natural setting of the Döbriach fields and hiked along the Riegenbach stream ("Riegen" comes from the Slovenian "Rijeka" and means stream or river) to Radenthein, which is known far beyond the country's borders as the town of garnets.
"Stone of love"
Until the beginning of the 20th century, the ruby-red gemstone was mined in the town and taken to Bohemian cutting mills for processing, from where it was sent all over the world, sparkling seductively as Bohemian garnet jewelry. The Granatium in the town center provides interesting facts about the "stone of love and passion".
Past the adventure museum, the path led me steeply up to Mitterberg. From there, there is a fantastic panoramic view of the valley and the route to Lake Millstatt.
The highlight of the day was my stop at the Aichholzerhütte. Warmly welcomed by landlady Brigitte, I was allowed to take a seat at a special table...
"dohukndödodöeholleweildohukn" - and no, I didn't doze off over the keyboard. I sat on the wooden bench in front of the hut, ate a juicy giant doughnut, drank aromatic black coffee and was extremely satisfied.
Over soft forest floors and lush meadows between relaxed cows, the trail along the AAT led me up to the Erlacherhaus at an altitude of 1636 meters.
Landlady Angelika Erlacher spoiled me in the evening with homemade "yellow soup" - traditional Carinthian church day soup with saffron. The house in Langalmtal is surrounded by complete tranquillity. Before going to sleep, it pays to get out into the fresh air. At the end of the day, with a view of the clear starry sky and absorbed by the silence, I was grateful to have come so far.
Tour data: 14.7 km/ascent: 991 m, descent: 1098 m/duration: approx. 7 hours
Overnight stay: Falkerthaus - the rustic hut in the Nock region
Surrounded by mountain pines, Swiss stone pines and crystal-clear streams, I reached the Nassbodensee lake at 2030 meters in around 90 minutes. On the flank of the Grosser and Kleiner Rosennock, I followed a challenging path northwards to the first summit of today's tour, the Predigerstuhl at an altitude of 2170 meters.
We continued via the Erlacher Bockscharte to the second summit, which also marks the highest point of this stage. There was nothing going on at Pfannock (2254 m altitude) in the morning - the air was cool and the view of the imposing Zunderwände, a rare rugged formation in the otherwise gentle landscape of the Nockberge, was clear.
I could already smell the delicate scent of the alpine perfume "Speik". This mixed with the fresh mountain air made the crisp descent to the Pfannocksee easier. In the small cirque lake, which has formed in a cirque hollow on conglomerates, amphibians such as the alpine newt and the grass frog find ideal living conditions. During the short vegetation period in summer, small crustaceans such as water fleas and jumping fish develop there.
- "Speik": Valeriana celtica, commonly known as Noric valerian or simply "Speik", is a medicinal plant that is only found in the Nockberge mountains and parts of the Niedere Tauern on lime-free soils above an altitude of 1800 meters. Inconspicuous in appearance, its fragrance is unbeatable. Frankincense and "Speik" together make up the Carinthian incense mixture, which is used to fumigate the property during the Raunächte to protect against evil spirits.
- Stone pine, the "Queen of the Alps": survivor and character tree of the Nockberge mountains. In the past, it was customary for every farmer to plant a stone pine as a "house tree" in front of his property. Incidentally, "Zirbel" means "to turn" and refers to the arrangement of the cone scales.
From the "Rote Burg", I met more and more hikers. I realized why at the Brunnachgatter at the latest. Not far from here is the mountain station of the Brunnach biosphere park cable car (from Bad Kleinkirchheim). A final short ascent led me (and numerous other hikers) to the third summit cross of today's tour, the Mallnock at 2226 meters above sea level. On a broad mountain ridge, I finally hiked alone again to Oswaldeck to the south and arrived at the Falkerthaus, my stage destination, after around 45 minutes via a forest and woodland path.
Tour data: 19.3 km/ascent: 1170 m, descent: 1680 m/duration: 8 hours
Overnight stay: Hotel Prägant in Bad Kleinkirchheim
I started the 16th stage towards Bad Kleinkirchheim on soft ground through the larch and spruce forest. After a steep ascent, visibility unfortunately became increasingly poor from the Hundsfeldscharte, so I changed route and climbed directly to the Falkertspitze (2308 m altitude). A panoramic panel with directional arrows indicates all the prominent peaks within sight - so I could at least get an idea of what I could have seen if visibility had been good. After a little scramble from the summit, I joined the AAT at the Falkertscharte.
Still in thick fog, but following the red-white-red markings across gentle alpine meadows, I reached the Schwarzkofel at 2168 meters and descended steeply from there to the Moschelitzenalm.
From there, you hike through the forest with old larches and spruces - just like at the start five hours earlier. And by the time I reached Matl-Sepp's farm store and the mill of the same name, I was accompanied by warm rays of sunshine all the way to Bad Kleinkirchheim.
Even though I can't add three summits with great views to my tour book this time, I enjoyed the route step by step at my own pace. According to the motto: "The joy of hiking is to enjoy the lack of purpose. To find satisfaction in one's own self is the highest level of hiking" (Liezi, Chinese philosopher).
Tour data: 19.1 km/ascent: 1129 m, descent: 1271 m, duration: 7 hours
Overnight stay: Gasthof Alte Point in Arriach (geographic center of Carinthia)
Today was a steep ascent: the direct route led parallel to the Kaiserburg gondola lift from Römerbad Bad Kleinkirchheim (Kaiserburg/Wöllaner Nock markings) to the first summit cross - the Kaiserburg at 2059 meters above sea level.
A dark cloud front moved across the sky and immersed the summit of the Wöllauer Nock (2145 meters above sea level) in thick fog. And by the time I reached the Vorderer Wöllaner Nock via hiking trail 164, my rain gear came into play. On the descent to Plagrast (wooden supports of an old material ropeway) it rained steadily.
Photo shoot at the point
Following the gently sloping forest path in an atmospheric forest landscape, I finally reached the geographical center of Carinthia above Arriach. A solar-powered live webcam with a self-timer is aimed at the oversized survey point - rain-free, I took a short photo stop.
Directly on the Arriach farm hiking trail, I passed another special place: a mighty, gnarled spruce attracts attention and has enjoyed natural monument status since 1978 due to its peculiar growth form. The giant is known as the "candelabra spruce" (like an oversized candelabra candlestick) due to its splitting into seven smaller tops.
After walking for just over six hours, I reached my destination for today, nestled in the southern foothills of the Gurktal Alps. Arriach is not only the geographical center of Carinthia, but also has the largest Protestant church in the country, the "Vier-Evangelisten-Kirche". And at the Klösterle valley station, you can marvel at the largest hiking boot in the world with shoe size 1025 - curious!
Tour data: 16 km/ascent: 1247 m, descent: 212 m, duration: 5 hours
Overnight stay: Gerlitzen Gipfelhaus
Day 18 - and everything is wonderfully walkable!
First over asphalted and paved serpentines, then over forest and meadows, the route climbed steadily today - up to the Gerlitzen.
In the heart of the province, it rises as the southernmost main peak of the Carinthian Nockberge mountains and rewards the steep ascent with a 360-degree panoramic view. To the south, the peaks of the Karawanken mountains shine from the Petzen and Hochstuhl to the Mittagskogel. To the west of the impressive Triglav massif, you can look out over the Carnic Alps and Italy. The Grossglockner towers to the northwest, while the Nockberge mountains spread out to the north. From below, Lake Ossiach, Lake Wörth and Lake Faak shine up in pastel shades of blue.
I have fond memories of the "Feuerberg", as the Gerlitzen is translated from Slavic: I made my first turns on a snowboard in the snow here at the end of the 90s, experienced impressive sunrises at the summit, celebrated Christmas in the alpine hut village (before it became a luxury wellness resort) at an altitude of 1700 meters and later the wedding of dear friends on the Gerlitzen Alpe. And each time I arrived by car - except today. Today I chose the smallest possible ecological footprint to get to the plateau with big steps.
After several long hairpin bends along the Salzsteigweg (009 long-distance hiking trail from the Mühlviertel to the western Karawanken), which runs parallel to the AAT, I took a short break at the "Steinernen Tisch" (1615 meters altitude). Then I continued through the forest to the Almhäusersiedlung-Stifterboden. From there, there is a direct path to the summit. Or you can hike left to the Almseehütte and, after a refreshment stop, along the lift route up to the Gerlitzen Alpe at 1911 meters above sea level.
My personal luxury on the "Feuerberg": Tonight I'm spending the night in the summit house. As I write these lines, I can hear the electro-swing sounds of Parov Stelar coming from the music box in the umbrella bar. Day guests are still sitting around me, relaxing in deckchairs. Some people are walking to the viewing platform. Paragliders take off from the large meadow. At 4.45 pm, the last lift leaves for the valley - after that it will probably be quieter at the summit. The weather is good. And I'm already looking forward to the magic of the early morning.
Tour data: 16.9 km/ascent: 93 m, descent: 1473 m, duration: approx. 6 hours
Overnight stay: Gasthof zur Post in Ossiach
Bathing in happiness
4.45 a.m.: As the last of the fog lifted on this early Friday morning, looking out of my window into the valley, I could already see that this day was going to be particularly beautiful.
5.13 a.m.: The light that illuminates the mountains shortly before sunrise is always a special natural spectacle. As the darkness slowly gives way, the sky on the horizon turns pink to bright orange. The contours of the mountains and trees slowly become clearer, the moon recedes and a soft glow appears on the summit. Ray by ray, the sun reveals itself, gaining strength and energy with every passing minute. Like a goddess, with the power to bathe the world in a soft light, creating an image that enchants us anew every time.
I stood alone at the lookout tower below the summit house and it was the silence that was so wonderfully catching. The sunrise, which I was once again able to experience on the Gerlitzen Alpe, is without doubt one of the most magical moments that is deeply engraved in my brain and heart.
After this particularly beautiful experience, today's stage led me from the summit along the wooded high trail (4) down to the sunny slopes on the eastern shore of Lake Ossiach. From Wippenighöhe, the trail follows a steep descent to Bodendorf and onwards (41) to Golk. The last hairpin bends to Steindorf are on the gravel and asphalt road marked 43.
The "ships of Oss"
Once you arrive in the village, you have the choice of either strolling through the Bleistätter Moor nature reserve or taking the ferry to Ossiach. I chose the boat and after a 15-minute ride reached the landing stage on the south side of Carinthia's third largest lake. A refreshing swim in the clear water was a worthy end to this eventful summer's day.
Tour data: 17.5 km/ascent: 538 m, descent: 596 m/duration: 6 hours
Overnight stay: Hotel Garni Wurzer in Velden
Stage seven has already taken me through two impressive gorges, where I thought I was already close to the water. After today's tour I know: it can be even closer!
Rappitsch lies between Ossiach and Alt-Ossiach. In this tranquil little village, the gorge trail and my ascent to the Tauern pond today starts hidden next to the bridge. The path winds its way wildly and romantically upwards over stones, roots and numerous bridges - directly alongside the stream. In summer temperatures, walking through the gorge is an absolute treat, but in wet weather I would recommend taking trail 64 (gravel road).
From the secluded Tauernteich (889 m altitude difference), the trail leads along forest and woodland paths to Obersakoparnig. At Köstenberg, I could already see the Pyramidenkogel lookout tower in the distance above Lake Wörthersee in Keutschach and knew that my destination couldn't be far away.
I hiked through the Schmarotzerwald forest, past the Hohenwart castle ruins and along the Römerweg trail to the Seissersee lake, inspired by the knowledge that I had made it: hiking up to 20 kilometers a day on average for almost three weeks, up and down hundreds of metres in altitude, through heat, heavy rain and stormy heights... I am very proud of it!
In addition to numerous valuable encounters and conversations with like-minded people and locals, I was also able to learn a lot about myself again.
If you opt for a simple life, you can celebrate it on a long-distance hike: less instead of more, slow instead of fast, quiet instead of loud, single instead of multitasking, hiking trail instead of freeway, slow food instead of fast food, realization instead of entertainment.
The most difficult thing is to set off at all, because you logically need time for a hike lasting several weeks and have to leave behind supposed certainties and face the unknown. But:
"Just do it! In both senses of the word."
I would like to thank everyone who encouraged and accompanied me!
My tour on the AAT in Carinthia
- 20 stages, 350 kilometers: Various packages, info and booking center:
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Phone: 04782 930 93
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