Sperlonga

By night train to Ulysses

View of the picturesque coastal town of Sperlonga, the Capri of the mainland, with the Torre Truglia, which used to be a watchtower and is now a museum.

(Bild: [e-mail])

You can now travel to Rome in comfort on new night train sets. And from there, discover the beauty of the Lazio region, away from the Eternal City. The Ulysses Riviera between the Italian capital and Naples, for example, where impressive culture, authentic cuisine and wonderful towns and beaches are waiting to be discovered.

I am well rested when I arrive in Rome Tiburtina at 11 am. It was my first night train journey - and the first trip on the new-generation ÖBB Nightjet from Vienna, two successful firsts. In addition to sleeping, couchette and seating carriages, the modern and brightly furnished train has mini-cabins as an inexpensive alternative for solo travelers. Free WLAN and very good catering at fair prices round off the offer.

A comfortable and sophisticated way to travel to the Eternal City: the ÖBB Nightjet.

(Bild: ÖBB/Harald Eisenberger)

My first stop is a natural gem: the Ninfa Garden in Cisterna di Latina. Founded by aristocrats in the 1920s, the garden was created on the remains of the medieval town of Ninfa. You can feel the magic here. There are 200 species of roses and countless trees - from India, Siberia, Morocco and the Himalayas, for example. I also learn a lot of history during the guided tour.

The Giardino di Ninfa is often described as one of the most romantic gardens in the world.

(Bild: Mario Aberl)

However, you should not only learn about history, but also about culinary delights. This is what I do at the Marco Carpineti winery, where wine is produced organically from local and rare grape varieties as well as sparkling wine. With a view of the sunny landscape covered in vines, I taste the delicious wines, including those matured in terracotta amphorae - cin cin!

Before heading to the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea, I stop in Priverno and visit Fossanova Abbey, founded in the 12th century as a Cistercian monastery and home to one of the first Gothic churches in the country. My accommodation, the Hotel Summit, is located directly in a bay by the sea near Gaeta. In a former nunnery in neighboring Formia, the Hotel Villa Maria Teresa, I have a Mediterranean dinner that tastes heavenly. Later, the sound of the sea lulls me to sleep.

The next day starts with a cappuccino, cornetto and a sea view. I head straight to the town of Gaeta, whose history dates back to ancient times. The coastline along the region is associated with Odysseus. On his return journey to Ithaca, Ulisse, as he is called in Italian, is said to have passed through here and experienced several of his adventures.

A split mountain & dinner at Gina "Lollo"
The Montagna Spaccata, the split mountain, is impressive. Steps lead down to a chapel built into the long crevice. If history is to be believed, the split occurred when Jesus died. From the viewing platform on the chapel roof, I throw a coin into the adjacent sea and wish myself good health. I also visit the Grotta del Turco.

By chance, I meet the priest, who shows me something special: The chapel of Pope Pius IX, who was in exile here after the 1848 revolution. On a boat trip, I admire the sights I have just seen from the turquoise blue sea. After a break with typical local delicacies such as fish omelette and mozzarella, I head up Monte Orlando, where a circular mausoleum from Roman times is located.

INFO

GENERAL INFORMATION
www.visitlazio.com/en/
www.italia.it/en

ARRIVAL
ÖBB Nightjet from Vienna (or Munich) to Rome. Mini Cabin and couchette from € 54.90, sleeper from € 99.90. Booking: nightjet.com. Onward journey by train to Formia-Gaeta (approx. one hour). Well-developed bus network, car rental is an advantage for excursions.

HOTEL TIP
Hotel Summit www.summithotel.it/en

The Golden Chapel in the church of the Annunziata, which used to be an orphanage that had a baby hatch back in the 18th century, gives me an uplifting feeling. The ceiling and walls are covered in 24 kilos of gold. In the evening, I dress up for dinner with Gina Lollobrigida. At least in the mime's former villa, which now belongs to the Grand Hotel Le Rocce and is just a few minutes' walk away. While the moon is reflected in the sea and I think of the "Lollo", I enjoy red spotted sea bream with potatoes and propose a brindisi, a toast, to this evening.

Where Emperor Tiberius celebrated parties
The remains of Emperor Tiberius' villa, discovered in 1957, can be visited in Sperlonga. Including the grotto in which he had Odysseus' hero's journey recreated with statues. The emperor is said to have celebrated parties there and had a room for love games. Replicas and remains of the figures can be seen in the local museum. I also stop off in the town itself, often referred to as the Capri of the mainland, and stroll through the narrow, romantic alleyways. I leave the coast and drive to Itri. There are countless olive trees in the region, so I visit the Mancini family's oil mill. Junior boss Genesio explains how the "liquid gold" is produced. I also meet his sprightly 91-year-old nonna. I convince myself of the fine taste of the oil. Then the night train home awaits.

In contrast to the Greek hero, this journey was not an odyssey for me, but was characterized by the many positive impressions of this magnificent region, which is - still - less well known outside Italy.