Scotland

My heart is in the Highlands

Loch Ness with Urquart Castle: a highlight of the trip!

(Bild: Brigitte Egger)

The lonely far north of Scotland and the offshore islands offer incomparable natural experiences. There is nothing charming about their rugged beauty - but it is impossible to shake off.  

This is where I was born, this is where I live with my dogs and my sheep, this is where I want to die - like my father, who is buried in the meadow behind the house. My eldest son will carry on the tradition of shepherds, there is no better life!" - Neil Ross from Leaud Farm in the Scottish Highlands is a happy man.

He proudly shows how he directs his eight herding dogs in any direction he wants with 32 different whistles, how they drive an entire flock to him, how he picks out a sheep, hypnotizes it within seven seconds with the vibrating whistle and shears it clean within five minutes. Then he wakes the animal up again and it jumps away happily. Neil laughs at the astonished visitors. Self-confident, friendly and reserved, at peace with himself and deeply attached to his homeland.

Shepherd Neil shows how he shears a hypnotized sheep driven to him by herding dogs in a matter of minutes.

(Bild: Brigitte Egger)

A typical Highlander, just like the craftsmen in the last traditional textile mills on the Outer Hebrides - another hour's flight north of Glasgow - who spin, dye and weave the wool of Scottish sheep and turn it into the world-famous Harris Tweed. Some of their archaic machines date back to the 19th century, the work rhythm is deliberate, precise and characterized by pride in their incomparable craftsmanship. These fabrics are indestructible, hard-wearing and timelessly beautiful. Made to last, not light, and a little rough.

INFO

Scotland tours can be booked through many travel agencies.

• The specialist GTA-Reisen offers eleven dates from May to September 2025 and a ten-day nature experience trip including the Outer Hebrides and Isle of Skye from May 29 to June 7 from €3290 p. P./DZ incl. flights, hotel, breakfast, dinner, sightseeing.
  www.gta.at
  01 729 66 66 55

GENERAL INFORMATIONwww.visitscotland.com/de

Like so much of the north of Scotland and the offshore islands. This landscape is a brittle beauty that you don't fall in love with quickly or fleetingly. But if you love it, you can't get away from it and leave at least a piece of your heart in the Highlands.

Like the British royal family: a visit to Blair Castle in 1844 inspired Queen Victoria so much that she had Balmoral Castle, since then the summer and favorite residence of many of her successors, built in its likeness. Nowhere else do the royals feel so at home. After the morning "wake-up call" by bagpipers, they roam their beloved Highlands on horseback, by carriage or on foot, hunting, picnicking, fishing and painting. Prince Charles' emotional recitation of Robert Burns' national poem "My Heart's in the Highlands" has been a "perennial favorite" on the Internet for decades. The current King is immediately believed to always leave his heart in the Highlands, wherever he is.

Present everywhere: the national instrument, the bagpipes.

(Bild: Guido Cozzi/Atlantide Phototravel)

There can be no mass tourism here, no large hotel complexes and resorts. The accommodation - from simple to luxurious, is always personally and lovingly run; the cuisine is down-to-earth and better than the reputation of British cuisine, mainly because of the excellent ingredients (fresh salmon! mussels! Cod and potatoes for the best fish and chips, delicious beef).

Once - before a long hike, for example - you should also try the "Full Scottish breakfast" with eggs, bacon, black pudding, potatoes, porridge and bacon; and in the afternoon a cozy pot of tea with fresh scones, strawberry jam and butter or clotted cream. By the way, if you want to enjoy it like the late Queen, put the jam on the scones first, then the thick fat cream!

Also part of the culture: a pot of strong hot tea with fresh scones and strawberry jam.

(Bild: Brigitte Egger)

The bagpipers that can be heard everywhere also evoke royal feelings: In the museum in Glasgow, young Jamie makes every effort to teach visitors his difficult art. He himself started at elementary school, practicing tunes every day for two years on the small practice pipe, the "canter". Then for seven years, one hour a day with the "real" instrument including bellows, then came the first public performance. Jamie won prizes and performed in front of the royals. And he actually managed to teach at least one talented visitor from Austria the three-note song "Mary Had A Little Lamb". Unfortunately, most of them were unable to produce a single usable sound from their pipes and sacks.

The capital Edinburgh is an architectural jewel.

(Bild: Shaiith)

The megacity of Glasgow, the architectural jewel of Edinburgh and the Highland capital of Inverness have much to offer besides folklore - cathedrals, picturesque old towns, art nouveau districts, monuments and museums. Things are not quite as hectic as in the south of the island kingdom, but life is pulsating, the pubs are full, beer and whisky are flowing.

The flow of tourists is largely confined to these centers, and of course to Loch Ness. The 56 square kilometer lake with the ruins of Urquart Castle is a highlight and "must" for travelers to Scotland, far more idyllic and less frightening than the many reports about its legendary monster "Nessie" suggest.

Majestic deer can be seen everywhere as you drive along the lonely roads.

(Bild: Brigitte Egger)

Nevertheless, the soul of Scotland can be found out in the lonely Highlands, between more than 500 smaller "lochs", on single-lane roads with swerves for oncoming traffic. Where overtaking is impossible, everything becomes more leisurely. If you're not driving, you should visit one of the 148 whisky distilleries along the way and sample the national drink, which always tastes different. It can range from mild to rough in the throat, smooth or peaty. It always warms the stomach, which is important in this beautiful country, which is more famous for damp winds than balmy evenings. "Today's rain is tomorrow's whisky", the Highland lover consoles himself with a sip when it's wet!

Brigitte Egger