Germany

Lübeck: Advent in the city of marzipan

With mulled wine and live music, you can really get into the Christmas spirit at the harbor glow on Lübeck's Drehbrückenplatz.

(Bild: LTM)

In the German Hanseatic city of Lübeck, known as the Christmas City of the North, tradition, marzipan and Baltic Sea magic combine to create a unique Christmas world. During my pre-Christmas trip, I also find out why the famous Holsten Gate once almost disappeared.

Over a hot chocolate and a homemade nut-nougat yeast bun, I gaze at the Holsten Gate. The landmark of Lübeck that once almost disappeared. I'm sitting in the "Christmas Center", as the beautifully decorated tourist information center is called during the Advent season. It is the first port of call for visitors and the starting point for my pre-Christmas journey through the Hanseatic city.

Panoramic view of Christmassy Lübeck with its church spires and the Holsten Gate (front) with its massive twin towers.

(Bild: LTM)

The tradition of the Christmas market, as it is known here, dates back to the 17th century. But Lübeck is also world-famous for the Mann family of writers - think Thomas Mann and "Buddenbrooks" - and above all for marzipan, which came here from the Orient. Time to immerse yourself in the many Christmas worlds of the "sweet city".

From harbor glow to arts and crafts
The harbor glow on the waters of the Untertrave attracts visitors with mulled wine, fish sandwiches and coastal focaccia in a unique setting. Between beach chairs and wooden barrels, you can enjoy punch with or without a shot - from Estonia, for example - at the maritime Christmas market in the old seafaring quarter of the Old Town island, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Or you can look out over the beautifully illuminated city from the Ferris wheel.

Impressive arts and crafts can be admired in the Holy Spirit Hospital right next door. A little further on, next to St. Jacob's Church with its historic organs and the Pamir Chapel, which is a national memorial to civilian seafaring, a village of gnomes awaits visitors of all ages. The latter are invited to play a round of Secret Santa golf.

Around 80 international artists and craftspeople will be exhibiting their work in the Holy Spirit Hospital.

(Bild: LTM)

A visit to the European Hanseatic Museum is also on the program, where you can learn about the 800-year history of the medieval trading alliance, the Hanseatic League. Lübeck was the most important city in this association, partly due to its geographical location, and was called the "Queen of the Hanseatic League" - as it still is today.

Visiting the Trelchen in Travemünde
Speaking of the Hanseatic League. The next day, I take the MS Hanse to Travemünde on the Baltic Sea, where I watch ships setting sail at the local "Schiff ahoi" Christmas market. The blue hour is magical. I take a walk to Linus, Kalli and Lumi, the "Trelchen".

Magical atmosphere at sunset. The Travemünde moose, also known as the "Trelche", look out over the Baltic Sea.

(Bild: LTM)

The five-metre-high, illuminated moose figures in the seaside resort of Travemünde are a popular photo motif, even now during the colorful sunset. Just a few steps away, at the Nordermole lighthouse, I breathe in the cold, fresh Baltic Sea breeze and am happy.

Of marzipan and sweets
Back at the classic Christmas market near Lübeck's town hall, the smell of potato pancakes and sweet Mutzen, a deep-fried pastry, makes me weak. Afterwards, I browse through the stores of various marzipan producers and buy a lot of marzipan. A word of advice for air travelers: Marzipan has a similar density to some explosives, meaning you are almost certain to be specially checked at the airport.

The "classic" Christmas market around Lübeck's town hall.

(Bild: LTM)

Why the Holsten Gate still stands today
I discover something humanly warming on the Schrangen: the "Merry Vereinshütte", where a non-profit association can present itself every day. Katjana, a native Lübecker who is currently serving punch for the AIDS charity and used to be a city guide, reveals the "secret" of the Holstentor to me. In 1863, a single vote in the city parliament saved the dilapidated gate from being demolished. I no longer need to get into the Christmas spirit. Christmas is here.