On the 200th birthday

Vienna: In the footsteps of Johann Strauss Sohn

View of the historic Strauss Hall in the House of Strauss in Vienna-Döbling. It is the last surviving concert hall in which all four "Strausses" played.

(Bild: Sima Prodinger/House of Strauss)

Immerse yourself in the world of three-four time: from waltzing at the Elmayer dance school to the House of Strauss and a fascinating conversation with a descendant of the Waltz King - a trip to Vienna that brings history and music to life in a unique way.

Whether at concerts or balls, the music of Johann Strauss II, born on October 25, 1825 - son of the first waltz king Johann Strauss Vater - continues to enchant millions of people around the world. Including me. My journey under the sign of the three-four time begins with Prof. Thomas Schäfer-Elmayer at the famous Elmayer dance school, a symbol of Viennese dance culture for over 100 years.

In 2006, I successfully auditioned here with my dance partner Claudia for the Vienna Opera Ball. Not with the very best left-hand waltz, but with a smile - an unforgettable experience. Waltzes, ballroom dances and etiquette are taught here. Prof. Schäfer-Elmayer talks about the tradition of the balls, the history of the Viennese waltz, which is a UNESCO cultural heritage site, and explains how to waltz properly.

After a demonstration by the Viennese waltz formation, things get serious. Unlike usual, I am asked by one of the young dancers - it's ladies' choice. "On the beautiful blue Danube" - the "Danube Waltz" - is played.

A visit to the famous Elmayer dance school. Dancers from the Viennese Waltz formation (here with Prof. Thomas Schäfer-Elmayer, center) gave a taste of their skills.

(Bild: Mario Aberl)

A dancing couple from the Viennese Waltz formation.

(Bild: Mario Aberl)

Probably the most famous of the more than 500 dance compositions left behind by Johann Strauss Sohn. How fortunate that his father's attempt to prevent his son from becoming a musician by petitioning the magistrate failed. But now let's dance. Here we go. Forward, sideways, end. Back, side, end - I am thrilled.

Strauss operetta returns
The scent of the new is still clearly perceptible when I visit the Theater an der Wien afterwards. Employees from various departments, such as make-up, costume and technology, give regular tours of the magnificent music theater, which has been renovated, modernized and reopened in October. In front of and behind the scenes. The theater on Linke Wienzeile will also be celebrating its 200th anniversary next year.

The operetta "Spitzentuch der Königin" will be performed at the Theater an der Wien, which will only reopen in autumn 2024.

(Bild: Peter Mayr/Theater an der Wien)

Philipp Wagner-Nguyen, Head of the Ticket and Subscription Office, tells us during our tour. The Strauss operetta "Das Spitzentuch der Königin", first performed here at the Theater an der Wien in 1880, is on the program on 18 January. The parody of the rebellious Crown Prince Rudolf - whose liberal ideas the monarchy seemed less than enthusiastic about - was very successful at the time, but was removed from the repertoire after Rudolf's suicide.

The last concert hall where all the "Sträusse" played
A visit to the House of Strauss in Vienna-Döbling is a special experience. Opened in December 2023, the museum in the former Casino Zögernitz is dedicated to the Strauss dynasty, the glittering concert and ball nights of yesteryear and Vienna's role as the capital of music. The interactive exhibition on 2000 square meters that owner Hermann Rauter has created here is impressive.

During my visit, I am given a special honor: Prof. Eduard Strauss - the Waltz King was his great-granduncle - personally guides me through his family history. Pointed, exciting and entertaining. He is not a musician himself, but his enthusiasm for music plays a major role in the life of the lawyer, who sings in a choral society.

INFO

• General information: wien.info & johannstrauss2025.at
• House of Strauss: houseofstrauss.at
• Theater an der Wien: theater-wien.at
• Elmayer Dance School: elmayer.at
• Johann Strauss - New Dimensions: johannstraussmuseum.at
• Strauss apartment: wienmuseum.at/johann_strauss_wohnung

The thing with the double S
What is important to the descendant: the spelling of the family name, which is always the subject of discussion. Prof. Strauss, also chairman of the Vienna Institute for Strauss Research, explains: When spelling the name at the time, people used a doubling sign for consonants that had largely been forgotten in the 19th and 20th centuries. This looks like the lowercase letter "h" in Kurrent script and is incorrectly read and written as "ß". In short: Strauss means Strauss.

The highlight of the visit to the House of Strauss: a guided tour with Prof. Eduard Strauss, who also told us about great-granduncle Johann Strauss II.

(Bild: Mario Aberl)

Finally, we enter the Strauss Concert Hall, where concerts are regularly held. It is the last original concert hall in which all four "Sträusse" - the geniuses Johann Strauss father, Johann Strauss son, Josef Strauss and Eduard Strauss - played. I close my eyes and imagine the masters themselves playing.

Where the Danube Waltz was once composed
But you can also visit the place where "On the Beautiful Blue Danube" - also one of the highlights of the Vienna Philharmonic's annual New Year's Concert - was written: the Strauss apartment in Praterstrasse in the 2nd district.

Apartment to museum: what else there is to discover
With special headphones, you can immerse yourself chronologically in the life and work of the Waltz King in the recently opened permanent exhibition "Johann Strauss - New Dimensions" at the Johann Strauss Museum near the Naschmarkt. And there is so much more to experience, such as a special Strauss exhibition at the Kunsthistorisches Museum, concerts and much more.

But I still have a whole (Strauss) year for that. The Waltz King may no longer be with us, but his music lives on!