How experts test

How experts taste: pumpkin seed oil on the test bench

One of several tasting commissions in Stainz: farmer Wilfried Lackner, Peter Schloffer (Fandler oil mill) and pumpkin farmer Melanie Kern (from left)

(Bild: Jauschowetz Christian)

The Styrian "Green Gold" regional award is in full swing. The "Krone" was allowed to look over the jury's shoulders with all its senses at the tasting in Stainz. 

A tempting aroma hung in the air at the Stainz Agricultural College last week. The school was the venue for the 26th Styrian pumpkin seed oil award, for which a 100-strong jury of experts took it in turns to taste around 500 submitted oils over four days and evaluate them according to objective criteria.

Styrian pumpkin seed oil is not only part of the identity of the Grüner Mark, but has also developed into an internationally sought-after specialty. To ensure that the quality is right, the regional award was launched at the end of the 1990s. "Since then, the quality has steadily increased. In the beginning, only around half of the submissions were awarded prizes, today it is over 90 percent," says Reinhold Zötsch, Managing Director of the Styrian Pumpkin Seed Oil PGI Association.

Jury consists mainly of pumpkin seed oil producers
In addition to laboratory analyses, which ensure certain food standards, the tasting by a specially trained jury is particularly important. Each oil submitted is assessed by two commissions, with a third team being involved if the results differ.

Head of tasting Franz Siegfried Wagner, Reinhold Zötsch (GF Gemeinschaft Steirisches Kürbiskernöl g.g.A.), Alois Eibler, LWK Steiermark (from left).

(Bild: Jauschowetz Christian)

After comprehensive laboratory analyses, the tasters' trained palates are in demand.

(Bild: Jauschowetz Christian/Christian Jauschowetz)

Five anonymous oil samples are placed on the table in each round, and each oil is tested by two committees.

(Bild: Jauschowetz Christian)

A special testing device is used to closely examine the typical two-tone color of the seed oil.

(Bild: Jauschowetz Christian)

The kernel oil experts, most of whom are producers themselves, are served five oils at a time - anonymously, with numbers only. The "Krone" sits at the table with Wilfried Lackner, winner of the last Kernöl-Championat.

After a stern look and the smell test, Lackner grabs a spoon and lets the "green gold" pass through his mouth with the so-called "Kernölschnalzer". "Very harmonious, good mouthfeel, roasted note on the stronger side," is his verdict - his fellow commissioners agree.

(Bild: Krone KREATIV)

"Personal taste doesn't count"
A sip of tea to neutralize, and on we go. "We vote on the basis of objective criteria, personal taste doesn't count."

The next sample is judged more critically by the committee of three: "Very flat, no special taste, you can't find the core. Must be due to the raw material," says Peter Schloffer from the Fandler oil mill in Eastern Styria. From the quality of the raw kernels to storage and roasting, many factors determine how the end product tastes - and whether it achieves the necessary points for the regional award.

Rich green with a ruby red shimmer
Meanwhile, tasting manager Franz Siegfried Wagner scurries through the rows in a white coat, keeping an eye on everything. Using a testing device, he also takes a close look at the typical two-tone color: "The oil must have a rich green tone with a ruby red shimmer," explains Wagner, who has been professionally accompanying the award with his food analysis institute from the very beginning. 

Once all the results have been evaluated, it will be announced at the official award ceremony at the end of February which seed oils will be awarded the coveted award plaque this year.