Schladming-Dachstein

Ramsau: On the right track

There are up to 220 km of perfectly groomed trails in Ramsau am Dachstein.

(Bild: Peter Burgstaller)

Cross-country skiing, winter hiking and enjoyment can be perfectly combined in Ramsau in the Styrian Schladming-Dachstein region. In the winter idyll of the sunny plateau, perfectly groomed cross-country ski trails, picturesque hiking trails and culinary highlights await.

The imposing sight of the Dachstein never fails to impress me," says Walter Walcher. The native Ramsauer has been a mountain guide for over 40 years. In the sunshine, he hikes with me through the glistening snow to the Brandalm, picturesquely situated at the foot of the Dachstein south face. The panorama is impressive. Locals play the harmonica and guitar in front of the hut - the alpine romance is perfect!

The next morning, I start my cross-country skiing course in the World Championship stadium under the expert guidance of trainer Lisa. In 1999, Ramsau am Dachstein hosted the Nordic World Ski Championships. The place is a true paradise for cross-country skiers and winter sports enthusiasts, from beginners to professionals. Lisa shows me the classic style - keeping my balance, gliding, correct use of poles, double pole technique. I gain confidence with every exercise. A fall is part of it.

In keeping with tradition, every piece of loden produced in-house at Lodenwalker in Ramsau am Dachstein is dried in the fresh air.

(Bild: Alwin Strasser)

The most important thing, as in life: get up and carry on. You can also enjoy the tranquil winter landscape of Ramsau am Dachstein on a horse-drawn carriage ride, a fat bike tour or a snowshoe hike. Between sport and nature, I immerse myself in a piece of Styrian craftsmanship and visit the oldest loden mill in the world. Loden has been made here according to tradition since 1434. Boss Jörg Steiner shows me around the production facility and explains how the fabric is made. What makes it so special? Its robustness. Jörg believes that people today could do with more of it.

INFO

• How to get there
  Take the train to Schladming and then the bus to Ramsau am Dachstein. Or by car.
• General information about Styria, the region, Ramsau and cross-country skiing
  www.steiermark.com and TVB Schladming- Dachstein: www.schladming-dachstein.at
• Accommodation tip
  Ramsauhof Hotel & Spa: www.ramsauhof.at
• Mountain and ski guide
  Walter Walcher
  Phone: [phone]
• Lodenwalker
  Free tour of production for those interested.
  Store & inn, guided tours for groups of 20 or more: www.lodenwalker.com

I walk back to my accommodation, the Ramsauhof, and enjoy the wintry afternoon sun. After a delicious dinner and a sauna infusion, it's time for bed. Before the second day of the course, I feel muscles that I didn't really "know" I had. Everything is easier today, cross-country skiing is really fun - the cold, clear air, the gliding feeling on the trail - now I know why so many people love this sport.

Afterwards, a delicious pumpkin and potato goulash awaits me in the Ederstube restaurant with landlady Christine. The dish is part of the Almkulinarik, where top chef Richard Rauch creates delicious dishes with regional ingredients in collaboration with local mountain hut owners. I am spoiled with culinary delights throughout my trip. I meet Walter again in the afternoon.

Ederstube landlady Christine with her pumpkin and potato goulash, which is available with or without Bruanschweiger. The dish was created with 4-toque chef Richard Rauch as part of Almkulinarik by Richard Rauch.

(Bild: Martin Huber)

Our culinary tips

• Hotel-Restaurant Ennstalerhof
  Venison carpaccio & Wiener schnitzel (saddle of veal) from the clarified butter pan.
  www.enns talerhof.at
• Waldschenke Ramsau
  Baked meat dumplings with sauerkraut & Steirerkas.
  www.waldschenke-ramsau.at
• Red Angus
  Steaks from our own Red Angus cattle.
  www.redangus-ramsau.at
• Halseralm Ramsau
  Flambéed Kaiserschmarrn
  www.halseralm-ramsau.a
• "DAS rittis"
  Homemade tortellini with spinach, ricotta & white tomato sauce.
  www.dasrittis.at
• Ederstube alpine cuisine
  Pumpkin and potato goulash - created by 4-toque chef Richard Rauch together with landlady Christine Pitzer.
  www.ederhof.co.at
• Brandalm
  Sweet farmer's doughnut
  www.bran dhof.com/brandalm

We take a leisurely hike to the Halseralm, a 400-year-old hut where a very special Kaiserschmarrn is served. It is prepared in the rustic parlor directly at the table next to the guests - and then flambéed. I get to blow out the flame. The sweet delicacy is served with homemade apple sauce and cranberries. Ducks, chickens and geese strut around outside - a scene straight out of another era.

Finally, I "climb" the mighty mountain on the Dachstein cable car. From the mountain station at 2,700 meters, my gaze once again sweeps over the region. Once you've been on the right track, you'll keep coming back. I certainly do.